Postcard from Porto, all the buzz and names to know from Portugal Fashion Week
“Portugal looks So much like Goa!” Not my brightest moment, I admit. But that’s what came to my mind when I landed in Lisbon. If you’ve known Goa for years, the architecture and colours of Portugal will fool you too….for a second.
As soon as I got my chronology back in order, I took the road to Porto, where the 38th Portugal Fashion week was taking place.
Luis Buchinho had caught my attention at Paris Fashion Week, and I needed to find out what other gems may be hidden from us by the 4 self-claimed Fashion Capitals.
The Portuguese have a solid experience in quality textile and leather, which they have been exporting to their neighbours for years. So to see their know-how, heritage and vision up close was hugely exciting.
Here are my picks of the most promising fashion names.
The man who teased my curiosity in did not disappoint. The Buchinho girls in collaged wool, jersey and leather collage walked past grand metal structures that enhanced the fragility of the collection. Look after look I felt that someone finally understood the psychology of the modern woman: layered, intricate, sophisticated.
Complex knitting, joyful colours and cosy shapes triggered our inner child. This collection makes you want to take a trip to a cold place to justify owning her roomy woollen pieces. When the rainbow jumper took the runway, the whole front row straightened up like a pack of meerkats. A trip to the Himalaya dressed in Bettencourt is now a must.
A bunch of guys wearing tents! That woke us up after having indulged in local food and wine. Mendoça dabbled with the primary purpose of clothing, – protection of the body. She addressed the need for refuge wear and comfort with beautiful handmade wool coats and nylon jackets, in functional shapes and pops of colour.
Pedro Pedro wanted his collection to be an anti glam manifesto, which I thought could swing in the exact opposite direction, too. He managed to create light and effortless chic silhouettes in raw linen, thick knits and wool jersey. Oversized jumpers, generous volumes and asymmetric cuts floated in layers on the models, marking their feminine shapes with mystery and grace.
PE DE CHUMBO
Rough and smooth, thick and transparent, subtle and strong – AlexandraOliveira’s collection was all about contrasts..
Based on traditional techniques, the garments were constructed thread by thread, in a mixture of weaving and knitting to give them a unique look.
Take a break and lose yourself in an art deco ice-cream cupat the iconic Café Majestic
Codfish is a must eat in Portugal. Indulge in a grilled or baked version while facing the river Douro at Vinhas d’alho.
Treat yourself to a local designer piece at the Scar.id store. They have an excellent curation and stock past seasons as well.
Head to A Vida Portuguesa for the best kind of souvenir shopping. The concept store has everything from soaps to honey figs.